Roam Free with M&G

How many castles and beautiful sightseeing spots can you squeeze into a 9-day road trip along the East Coast of Scotland? Well the answer may surprise you!

So, the way I plan my trips is I make a list of all the places that I absolutely have to visit, and then get my wonderful husband to figure out the best route to take to make sure we can fit all my must-visit locations. Now this is probably not the best way to plan holidays but it has pretty much become the way we plan our trips.

My first step is making a list of my absolute MUST NOT MISS spots, then plan the route the best fits. Once we have the route figured out, that’s when I fill out the space with other locations that I want to check out. So, follow along as this road trip is full of amazing locations and wildlife to see, and we still have so much more of Scotland to explore.

Our trip starts in our home town in North Wales, we left our home super early in the morning and made the 7hr drive to Inverness. After a meal at the pub near our hotel, we went for a nice walk around the city, along the River Ness and Inverness Castle.

Day two, we continued our drive North and our first stop of the day was at Urquhart Castle, which is situated right on Loch Ness. We arrived at the ruins right on opening and enjoyed a walk through of a 1000yrs of history. After a wonderful morning we then drove about 1hr 30min to what has to be one of my favourite castles that I have ever visited!! Dunrobin Castle, the historic home of Earls and Dukes. The oldest part of the building dates back to 1275! The gardens themselves were enough to make this a must visit for me, especially if you are able to make it during spring to see the flowers.

After a magical time wandering through Dunrobin Castle and Gardens we headed off to our next stop of the day – Sinclair Girnigoe. Here lies ruins of two Castles by the sea; 15th-century Castle Girnigoe and the early 17th-century Castle Sinclair There wasn’t a lot to see here but we had the area to ourselves and it was nice to have a peaceful moment walking around these ruins with the waves crashing beneath us.

Our next stop was more castle ruins, Old Keiss Castle but I would say that they were one of my favourites to visit as it stands right on the sheer ocean cliffs. Again, there wasn’t a lot to see. It was free to park and walk up to, but it’s just the idea that in these ruins may not be here for that much longer.

After a short time walking around the ruins we headed off to our next destination, Duncansby Head & John O Groats. When we arrived we walked up towards the cliffs and rock formation. As we got closer to the top we noticed hundreds of birds flying above, the closer we got we noticed that the birds were puffins! I couldn’t believe our luck, we had never seen puffins before so this encounter was very special. Once I’d finished taking a few hundred photos, we made our way back down to Inverness for the night.

Day three we started with checking out of our hotel in Inverness and drove east to our first stop, Balvenie Castle. Records show that the castle dates back to being built in the late 1200s, making it one of Scotland’s oldest stone castles. There is only ruins left now but visiting Balvenie Castle offers a fascinating glimpse into Scotland’s medieval past and architectural heritage. After spending a little while walking around the ruins we popped a few minutes down the road to Auchindoun Castle. Another castle that is now just ruins originally built back in the 15th Century, Auchindoun has a storied past, including sieges and battles, and it has passed through various noble families throughout history. Our third stop of the day was at Huntly Castle, built in the 12th century you can see that some of the original ornate facade and interior stonework still remain. The castle has a rich history, including visits from notable figures such as Robert the Bruce, James IV, and Mary Queen of Scots. Next stop was Tolquhon Castle, a picturesque ruin located in Aberdeenshire, this castle features an impressive gatehouse, a first-floor gallery, and a main hall with distinctive stone tile work.

Our final stop of the day was at Slains Castle. It stands on a cliff-top overlooking the North Sea and was a popular entertainment spot for celebrities in the 19th century. We finally made it to our B&B for the evening and enjoyed a lovely meal from the local Indian restaurant. Next morning we set off in wet and foggy weather, and made it to Balmoral Castle, which is the cherished summer home of the British Royal Family. This is one of those ‘Must visit Castles’. Even though the weather was rubbish, I thoroughly enjoyed walking around some of the rooms inside and the castle grounds. We even saw a red squirrel jumping through the trees which was a special treat to see.

Our next stop of the day is a castle that definitely stands out, and is said to be the inspiration for Walt Disney’s Cinderella Castle at Disneyworld, its the iconic Craigievar Castle. Built around 1626 by the Forbes family, Craigievar Castle remained in their hands for over 350 years. The castle is renowned for its fairy-tale turrets, towers, and detailed plaster ceilings and of course its eye-catching pink exterior. Its seven stories are filled with period furnishings, artworks, and an array of historic artifacts.

Our next stop of the day was Castle Fraser. Unfortunately, because we had a timed entry in the afternoon at our previous castle, we arrived just after this castle had already closed so we were only able to walk around the grounds. As the castle was closed we were only here for a short time, then headed out to our last stop of the day Dunnottar Castle. It’s a stunning medieval fortress perched on a rocky headland along the northeast coast of Scotland. The site of the ruins is believed to have been fortified in the Early Middle Ages. When we arrived we were lucky that the rain held off and we were able to spend a few hours walking around the area before making our way to our lovely hotel in Pitlochry. That evening we enjoyed an incredible Scottish dinner at Victoria’s Restaurant where we tried their MacSween’s Haggis Bon Bons, a bit strong for my taste, but hubby enjoyed them.

Day five we left early and drove 2 hours to see the famous Glenfinnan Viaduct and Jacobite Steam Train. The second and third Harry Potter movies were filmed in this area. We arrived with plenty of time to make the short walk to the viewpoint before the train made its journey right in front of us. If you want information about how to get there and when the trains pass though visit the official website. nts.org.uk. Thankfully, the weather cleared up and we had a beautiful day. After a walk around the Glenfinnan Monument we took off to our next destination, Kilchurn Castle. Built in the mid-15th century, Kilchurn Castle is a picturesque ruin located on a rocky peninsula at the northeastern end of Loch Awe in Argyll. We didn’t spend a huge amount of time here as we needed to get to our next location which was another castle on my bucket list that I wanted to check out. Its the glorious Inveraray Castle. The castle was so beautiful and the gardens were in full bloom. The castle’s interior includes beautifully decorated rooms and a collection of over 1,300 weapons, including pikes, muskets, and swords. If you’re a Downtown abbey fan, like me, you may recognise that Inveraray was featured in a Christmas episode in 2012.

After a lovely breakfast at our hotel we started our 6th day at Stirling Castle, we spent quite a bit of time just walking around the rooms and learning about the history of the castle and town, we walk along the large walls around the castle. The origins of Stirling Castle date back to at least the early 12th century. It has been the site of numerous sieges and battles, including the Wars of Scottish Independence. The castle was a favoured residence of Scottish kings and queens, including Mary, Queen of Scots, who was crowned there in 1543. Following that, we made our way to Drummond Castle and its stunning gardens. This visit was without a doubt the highlight of our day, with its breathtaking landscapes and historical charm leaving a lasting impression.

After our enchanting walk through Drummond Gardens we headed off to Dunfermline Abbey & Palace. The abbey was originally founded in the 11th century by Queen Margaret. It now serves as the burial site for several Scottish monarchs, including Robert the Bruce, who was laid to rest there in 1329. Our next stop was to Cambusnethan House which is now in derelict condition and listed as an At-Risk building. Even though I knew this before going there, I still wanted to have a look at what was left – turns out, not much. Below is the photo i took when we visited and next to it is what it looked like back in 1825.

On day seven, we departed from our hotel and headed to Craignethan Castle, a lovely ruin from the 16th century. We arrived right on opening so we had the place to ourselves to explore and spent about an hour walking around. From there we travelled to Crossraguel Abbey. Unfortunately, it was closed on the day we went, but there was another castle ruin just a few mins walk just off the side of the road so we decided to take a little walk to get a closer look. We believe it was Battersan Castle, but we didn’t get any closer then the side of the road. Heading to our next destination, we took a brief 10-minute drive to the impressive Culzean Castle & Country Park. This stunning estate is a must-add to your list of Scottish castles. Inside you can admire the sweeping staircase with grand oil paintings and colonnades, Round Drawing Room, Armoury and the impressive entrance hall that features one of the world’s largest collections of British military flintlock pistols. As well as exploring the beautifully detailed rooms of the castle, there is so much more this estate can offer including: a deer park, home farm, walled garden, swan pond & pagoda, play areas for kids, walking trails, gift shops and cafes.

I would highly recommend this location for a family day out. We spent about three hours there and still didn’t get to see everything it has to offer. Our last stop of the day was at Glenluce Abbey, another building dating back to 1500. The site features a museum showcasing artifacts discovered at the abbey, providing a fascinating insight into monastic life. To finish our day, we took the scenic coastal road to our B&B, The Old Station House, in Castle Douglas which was originally a railway station before being converted into a charming bed and breakfast. The hosts were so warm and welcoming.

Day 8! After a huge and delicious cooked breakfast from our hosts, we headed towards Threave Castle, its a fascinating ruined tower that is 30 metres tall! When you arrive you will need to take a short boat ride to the castle, but if you make there on a nice summers day there are wild flowers all over the area to enjoy as you walk around the grounds.

Our next stop was at Sweetheart Abbey; now with a name like that we had to stop in and take a look around, and I’m so glad we did! Even though parts of the building were closed for restoration at the time, we were still able to walk around the ruins and cemetery. The name “Sweetheart Abbey” comes from its Latin name, Dulce Cor, which means “Sweet Heart”. This name was chosen by its founder, Dervorguilla of Galloway, in memory of her beloved husband, John de Balliol. After John’s death, Dervorguilla had his embalmed heart placed in an ivory casket, which she carried with her for the rest of her life. When she passed away, she was buried with his heart, and the abbey was named to honor their enduring love. For more information about the history of the abbey visit Sweetheart Abbey: History | Historic Environment Scotland | HES. Most of the ruins retained a remarkable amount of detail in the stones and still-intact ceilings.

Third stop of the day was Caerlaverock Castle. Dating back to the late 13th century, Caerlaverock Castle is a fascinating triangular moated fortress on Scotland’s southern coast. It also served as a filming location for the movie “The Decoy Bride,” featuring David Tennant. Next on our itinerary was Hermitage Castle, reportedly built around 1240. This massive keep is only partially in ruins, offering plenty to explore. Spent a short time here before making our way to our hotel, on the way we had a bit of spare time so popped into Melrose Abbey for a quick walk through before they closed for the day. We finished our day with a wonderful meal at Marmions Brasserie.

Our last full day of exploring Scotland before we make our way back home, our first stop of the day was Dryburgh Abbey, another ruined Abbey that still has a lot of character. In the dormitory there is a staircase we went down and it has to be one of the most narrow staircases we have ever come across. With every step it got smaller and smaller to the point that the ball of my foot only just fitted on the step (if you have large feet, like my hubby, you will have a bit of trouble FYI). I also enjoyed walking around and reading the tombstones and finding out how old they were. If you plan to be there during spring/summer you can spot some really lovely flowers, plus there is an old Yew tree that was planted back in 1136! After a lovely walk around the grounds we drove to a few different Roman Ruins including Chesters Roman Fort and Museum, Housesteads Roman Fort and Corbridge Roman Town – Hadrian’s Wall. All locations were very interesting but if you only have time for one, I would suggest Corbridge. They had a lot on location that would keep the family busy, but if you are a member of English Heritage you can visit all three. Our very last stop of our road trip is another must tick location for me, ‘Sycamore Gap Tree’. We parked at Steel Rigg car park and made the short but steep hike to the famous dip in Hadrians Wall, featuring the 150yr old Sycamore tree or Robin Hood Tree. Sadly, it was illegally felled by two men in September 2023. They have been charged with causing criminal damage to it and damaging the wall nearby.

After 9 days packed with incredible destinations, how many did we manage to squeeze into our Scottish road trip? The answer is an impressive 37! That averages out to 4 spectacular locations per day. Now obviously this is a full-on type of trip, so if you want a more relaxing time I would suggest you make a list of your top 5 ‘Must See’ and then work your way around those.

I hope you have enjoyed reading about this trip as much as I did putting it together. If you have any questions about locations or places to stay, please let me know. Remember, the world is yours to roam free!

Have you ever explored Scotland? What were your favourite spots, or is there a hidden gem I might have missed? Share your thoughts and experiences in the comments below. Let’s keep the adventure alive!